Day 2,123 of Traveling the World | Lisbon (Lisboa), Portugal | November 23, 2023

Jan and Mike

Happy Thanksgiving to all of our American readers! Today is our day of Triple 23s – 2,123 days of traveling the world, on November 23, 2023.

And a glorious day in Lisbon it was! Portugal is the home of Fado (Portuguese folk music), Pastel de Nata (most wonderful pastry), Ginja (alcohol), Pasteis de Bacalhau (cod fritters), Bica (espresso), and Port Wine (wine!).

Since we are not alcohol drinkers, we did not try the alcohol, and being on a cruise ship, we couldn’t stay out late enough to attend a Fado show. So, what’s left? Yes, we tried the cod fritters, and particularly, the pastel de nata, as we have many times in Portugal and even in Hawaii, where a bakery made them fresh every day.

Guru Walk is a company that offers free walking tours in bigger cities, where you pay what you wish at the end of the tour. Today’s was exceptional, as we had María as our tour guide. She appears several times below in photos and a video. Working to complete her Ph.D. in Fado music, she emphasized places to experience it, as well as how much you should expect to pay, as we walked around. Born in Lisbon, she is absolutely in love with the city and all it has to offer. We know exactly how much we should pay for bica, cod fritters, natas, or a shot of Ginja. Mostly, the cost is dictated by whether you are in an upscale neighborhood or a locals’ neighborhood.

Lisbon is a city of hills, so we started on a hill, since our cruise ship, of course, was at sea level…or should we say, river level, as we were docked in the Tagus River. And then we walked many staircases several different times. It was quite a workout! Seeing the many stairs in front of us on the last climb, she asked how we were doing. Jan said, jokingly, “I really hate you right now.” But she egged everyone on, as she is used to the hills and staircases. We climbed to some amazing lookouts, or Miradors, for views over the city and the river. When we stopped for the natas, unbelievably, the shop gave each of us one, free. It was like winning the lottery. Of course, most of us went back in and bought some more, so it was a win-win.

The day was warm and sunny, and lots of people were out and about. It was an ideal day to see parts of Lisbon that we hadn’t seen on previous visits. Having a guide really opens your eyes to delights that you never knew about. Our tour group was young and interested in everything, so it was also a lot of fun. If you ever take a Guru Walk in Lisbon, we hope you will be lucky enough to have Maria as a guide. She was just the best!

Escadinhas do Terreiro do Trigo, the narrowest street (although it is now a staircase) in not only Lisbon, but all of Europe.
In the Alfama District, we came upon this house with a playful mural.
Rounding a corner, this colorful building came into view. Notice the severed leg, just hanging out.
Laundry was out drying everywhere in Alfama. Our guide, Maria, told us that nobody in the country owns an indoor clothes dryer.
View of the Tagus River from one of the Miradors, or viewpoints, high in Lisbon.
We started seeing photographs adjacent to the front doors of residences in Alfama…a project undertaken to recognize the people who have lived here. When they pass away, their photos will remain.
This is two adjacent homes, with the residents’ names etched underneath their photos. The project is called Alma de Alfama, or the Soul of Alfama. It is very touching to experience.
This was a Ginja stand – we saw several. It is a ginger alcohol that people drink as a pick-me-up…whenever…and to toast the day.
Here is our guide, Maria, teaching everyone how to toast in Portuguese.
A building covered in azulejos, the Portuguese tiles, made of painted ceramics.
Rua Augusta, the major shopping street in downtown that leads to the Arco da Rua Augusta, a large ceremonial arch.
Here is the arch, with pretty angels adding to its grandeur.
The Santa Justa Lift, established at the end of the 20th century. It exits onto different levels at the rear.
Once at the top, there is an observation deck to get wonderful views of the city below. We walked up another way, not having to wait in an hour’s line and pay for the pleasure.
A Christmas market set up in Plaza Dom Pedro IV.
Teatro National D. María II is in the rear of the plaza.
A tribute to Fado music in statuary.
Another view over Lisbon from another Mirador.
The neighborhood of Chiado is home to Lisbon’s shopping and theater center, with high-end boutiques and restaurants.
A building wrapped as a gift in the Chiado District.
Here, Maria is pointing to the Guinness Book of World Records plaque. Bertrand Bookstore dates to 1732 and is the world’s oldest operating bookstore.
Liking the vibrant colors…
A Brasileira dates to 1905, serving coffee, particularly espresso, since then. In Lisbon, an espresso is called a Bica, short for the Portuguese phrase, “drink this with sugar.”
The inside is as impressive as the outside!
A festive building, to be sure.
A Fado restaurant, beautifully decorated with guitars, keyboards, dancers, and other tiles.
Plaza Luis de Camoes, a tribute to one of the country’s great poets.
A Pastel de Nata, filled with custard inside, with crunchy layers of filo dough outside, and warm from the oven – yum! Nata de Lisboa on the main shopping street is the place we visited, and they tasted perfect.
…Just for fun.

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