Road trip! In fact, a six-hour road trip, one way! We like traveling on our own and only take tours when we are doing something that is hard to do independently. Recently we have taken several, because that was true with the Galápagos Islands, the Sacred Valley, and Machu Picchu. This was another trip that was better done with guides. We understand that previously one could get to the area of the Nasca Lines by flying from a local private airport just a few hours from Lima. In an attempt to curtail drug trafficking, the Peruvian government has closed that airport. So now the only option for a trip to the area from Lima involves a very long day. We were picked up at our hotel by our guides Arturo and Carla of Lima Tasty Tours at 4:00 am, and we returned to the hotel at 10:00 pm. Arturo and Carla were very sweet and professional to spend the day with, and we were their only clients for the day.
That first six-hour drive got us to Nasca, where the mysterious artwork of figures drawn in the desert floor, called geoglyphs, can be found, which have survived for 2,000 years. Most archaeologists believe the drawings may have a religious meaning. The lines were first mentioned in a book in 1553, but it wasn’t until the 20th century, when they were observed from overflights, that they received the attention they deserved. To date, 358 geoglyphs have been discovered, although our 30-minute flight over the desert allowed us to see only about 20 of the most popular ones. And even with the copilot pointing out which ones we were seeing on either the right or left side of the plane, some were difficult to see. We kept taking photos of what sometimes looked like nothing, only to discover the next day that we had photographed most of the characters.
We found it thrilling to be observing the Nasca Lines, since we both knew of them, and had read about them, since we were very young. In Erich von Daniken’s book, Chariots of the Gods?, published in 1968, he postulated that the figures were extraterrestrial, designed by aliens as landing pads for space ships. Part of this idea comes from the concept that they are so extensive and intricate that the construction of them must be directed from high above and conducted using advanced technology. Studies have since shown that similar figures can be constructed with simple techniques, by a small number of people over a relatively short time period. Needless to say, his theories were debunked, but he brought international attention to the geoglyphs. And even if they don’t prove that ancient aliens visited the earth and doodled on it, seeing something in person that we both remembered from our childhoods was significant and thrilling for us.
After the flight, we headed to a local restaurant for a Peruvian lunch. We then headed to the city of Ica, where the only oasis in Peru is located, at Huacachina. As you come to the area of the oasis, the surrounding hills are actually giant sand dunes. What used to be a watering hole there is now a lake surrounded by resort properties, with hotels, souvenir shops, and paddle boats around the lake. But best of all is recreation on the sand dunes.
After slogging up a short hill of very fine sand for a few minutes, we came to a row of dune buggies. We were assigned the front seat, and some younger women were in the back seat. Our driver was an older man, likely in his 60s. He took off across the dunes, and our trek through the sand included some of the most fun, terrifying moments we experienced. Our guide, Arturo, called the experience “Nature’s Organic Roller Coaster.” The driver would drive straight up a dune mountain, creep over the crest, and drive straight down the other side. The women behind us screamed the whole time, like on a roller coaster, and it was terrifying, as we wondered if the dune buggy was either going to get stuck in the sand and throw us out, or if it would just start to roll over completely, head over end. It did neither, of course, but it was scary each and every time. Then, we suddenly stopped just before going down the other side of a steep dune. The driver pulled out “sand boards” (like surf boards), had us hold on to two straps, and we sand-surfed down the steep mountain. The very first girl wiped out when she hit bottom, but all the rest of us just made it safely down. It was so much fun! We did that a few times, then walked down the hill back to our car. Then we tucked into the back seat for the long drive back to Lima. It was a long day, but very interesting, historical, and fun. And, as Arturo forecasted, we are still washing the fine sand out of our clothing, our socks, and our shoes. He asked when we would get to Buenos Aires, as we had told him about our itinerary. “March 5,” we answered. Knowingly nodding his head, he predicted, “You will be finding sand until you reach Buenos Aires.” We believe him!
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