Day 2,261 of Traveling the World | Barcelona, Spain | April 9, 2024

Jan and Mike

2 years ago

Q: What do a hospital, residence, public park, palace, church, and concert hall have in common?? A: They are all wonderfully designed by two of Barcelona’s most famous architects – the legendary Antonio Gaudi and the lesser-known Lluis Domenech i Montaner.

First, the fabulous Art Nouveau hospital complex – St. Pau Recinte Modernista, by i Montaner and his son. Its construction was started in 1902, and it was in use until 2009. The complex consists of 12 pavilions connected by underground tunnels, with lots of green space in between. Several of the buildings were open to tour, and one had a stained-glass exhibition. It was whimsical and beautiful, and we imagined what it was like to be a patient here, with domes overhead, colorful tiles, and beautiful paintings.

Second, there is Antonio Gaudi’s first residential project – Casa Vicens (1883-1885). Over the past 20 years or so, we had visited the famous Gaudi homes, but had never heard of Casa Vicens. It is on a narrow residential street, and you can see the tiles as you approach it from down the street, knowing you are about to see something very special. Both inside and outside, it is covered in bright tiles, elaborate wrought-iron fencing and window treatments, carved wooden screens, different ceiling treatments in every room, and even a fanciful rooftop area. To live inside Casa Vicens would be an absolute delight. The great architect started out by thinking outside the traditional box, and the result is a very original, colorful residence. We absolutely loved it.

Third, the public park – Parc Guell – but there is a twist! We visited Parc Guell during our first time in Barcelona, almost 20 years ago. We jumped off the Hop On/Hop Off bus, hiked up the hill, and swooned over Gaudi’s designs for the public to enjoy in a park setting. So the other day, we (this time) took an Uber. We had read that there was now a fee to enter, which isn’t surprising, but takes away the delight of just stopping by, and wandering through, a public park. (A few months ago we found the same disappointing situation at the base of the Eiffel Tower.) However, when we went to purchase tickets, we were totally shocked – not only was the park “sold out” for the day, it was also sold out for the next three consecutive days! Nothing we read online had prepared us for that eventuality. So, having paid to be taken there, we took a few photos from outside and walked to other destinations nearby.

Fourth, a palace! This was yet another Gaudi building we hadn’t heard of before – Palau Guell, also commissioned by the man who commissioned the park. His palace is just off of La Rambla, so we combined a refreshing saunter down La Rambla with a visit. Once again, we just stood, agape, at the grandiosity and beauty of the residence, as a grand staircase leads to a multistory room with arches, a starry dome, a beautiful staircase leading to the upper floors, and even a pipe organ! The organ was playing in this grand room. It sounded very clear, and we could believe that it was being played live, but it likely was a recording. And, in usual Gaudi fashion, the rooftop was decorated with fanciful ventilation towers/chimneys.

Fifth, there is La Sagrada Familia – there has always been La Sagrada Familia! The Church of the Holy Family has been under construction since 1882. Originally scheduled for completion this year, Covid slowed down the work. But it has been announced that it will be completed in two years – 2026. We have included photos in the past, so this time our photo is a close-up of some of the detail that you normally don’t get to see. The building is constantly surrounded by tourists on all sides. One day, in a taxi back to our hotel, we were heading toward La Sagrada, only for the driver to veer away from it, as the traffic and tourists slow down both pedestrian and vehicular traffic.

Sixth, a concert hall – that would be the Palau de la Musica Catalana. It was conceived by i Montaner, who also designed the St. Pau hospital complex. The Palau de la Musica is a delight for the senses. Not only do you get to hear great music while there, but your eyes are always scanning the ceiling, the dome, and the wall mosaics, so that you don’t miss a single thing. We always try to book a concert here regardless of the musical genre, just so we can take in the surroundings for an hour or two.

After all of the glorious photos of these architectural wonders, we included some other various items we spied. We also visited the Musical Instruments Museum, which was free admission with the purchase of tickets to another concert at the l’Auditori, a more modern concert hall. This visit to Barcelona was a mixture of the new and the beloved, and it felt pretty perfect. Now, we are off to Morocco! The Moroccans are no slouches when it comes to architecture either!

*St. Pau Recinte Modernista, an Art Nouveau hospital.* *Who ever thought there was such a thing?*

*One of the other 12 pavilions. Can you just imagine winding up here?* *Dibs on the open-air tower room!*

*Just taking in the architectural features would help you feel better!*

*The great reception hall has Pepto-Bismol Pink tiling!* *Daring!*

*…and check out this hallway, flooded with light from the windows, with tiled ceiling and a flower motif in concrete.*

*Statues, elegant windows, and a gorgeous dome in this building.*

*An exhibition of stained glass panels in this former hospital ward.*

*It is immediately recognizable as a Gaudi creation.*

*The design of this wrought-iron gate is one he has used in other locations, including Parc Guell.*

*The exterior in this courtyard has a feeling of Morocco or Arabia.*

*Each room inside has a carved, decorated ceiling, along with one-of-a-kind lamps.*

*This textured blue and gold ceiling runs in waves, complementing the blue tiles and gold textured wall.*

*This octagonal room has a glorious dove-painted dome.*

*A tiny tower room, just big enough for one toilet. The rest of the bathroom was across the hall.*

*…and who would think of blue and white tiles with bold red walls? And the line of flowered tile is all hand-painted!*

*Parc Guell from outside the gate – free to see!*

*Here is Gaudi’s fence again – but look behind it, at the beautiful staircase surrounded by tile.*

*One of the whimsical buildings in the park.*

*The fence is all tiled in mosaic ceramic pieces across the top, with the medallions alternating between “Park” and “Guell.”*

*The grand staircase entrance into Palau Guell.*

*Upstairs in the palace are these beautiful arches in front of the window panel.*

*This is the multistoried grand hall, with interior upper windows for viewing, a staircase, and a pipe organ.*

*A view up to the starry domed ceiling.*

*…and some whimsical vents on the rooftop patio.*

*Just one photo of some of the detail on La Sagrada Familia, since we have posted photos before of the entire structure, as has everybody else in the world.*

*Palau de la Musica Catalana. It really does take your breath away.*

*Facing the elaborate stage with the organ pipes visible.*

*Detail of the ceramic roses on the ceiling, along with Pegasus flying in the balcony.*

*The exterior makes you wonder what is inside, as it just appears, like a fantasy, while you walk along. That is how we first discovered it, many years ago.*

*Yep! Barcelona has its own Arc de Triomf! We think that spelling might be Catalan, as many buildings and roads have switched from Spanish to Catalan, which makes visiting very confusing.* (Don’t try to tell the Catalonians that, though. Like many other cultures around the world, they are very proud of their local language that, unlike Spanish, NONE of us ever studied in high school or college, and NOBODY from ANYWHERE ELSE speaks. Please excuse our editorializing. We like to keep these blogs positive, so no more of that for this one.)

We initially were not sure what this is, exactly. As you can see, it was in San Pedro, or Pere, Plaza, and at first glance, looks like four benches – but not very comfortable ones! If you look in the middle, though, there are four spigots – it is a fountain. Duh. *And hence, there is grating on the ground to catch the excess water.*

*The wonderful Gothic Quarter – we always walk here along whichever street looks most interesting at the moment, turning and twisting. We don’t believe we have yet seen all of it, but we love to explore.*

*A pretty little shop in the Gothic Quarter.*

*A friendly and adorable greeting, also in the Gothic Quarter.*

*Piano Girafa, 1840, Vienna, Austria. A vertical piano in the Museum of Musical Instruments. Very unusual.*

*The Automatic Orchestra, 1850-1900. We would have loved to hear this play!*

*La Rambla. Always the same over more than five centuries, and always different and changing.*

*Detail of the top of the Arts & Sciences Building on La Rambla.*

*In the Mercat de la Boqueria, the main market on La Rambla, were these spiral potato kebabs for sale. Aren’t they fun?*

*Also for sale – marzipan imitating different fruits, including the cute faces on the tomatoes.*

*This shop’s colors were simply dazzling.*

*Mixed in with the various cuts of meat was this sad Mr. Piggy. We don’t know if it was for sale (or what you do with it if you purchase it), or was just for – ???? – decoration??*

*Just like KFC, but halal. There are lots and lots of fried chicken places in Barcelona, including KFC – and they are all crowded!*

*Artwork made from cans, livening up a building’s side wall.*

*We had Lebanese cuisine several times in Barcelona, and the chicken shawarma was especially good every time – with hummus and pita, of course,*.

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